The Vintry, a place where wine is sold

The Vintry, within the Matakana cinema complex, is a good starting point for familiarising yourself with this ever more popular wine region. Established five years ago it boasts the largest local wine list, allowing people to taste wines from different vineyards without leaving the village! They do blind tastings (only with wines they sell by the glass), and although I found the proprietor somewhat condescending, it is a rather neat concept to introduce people to the basics of wine tasting and the region. A cross between a bar and the local wine merchant perhaps?

I had a "blind" tasting sitting out on their expansive deck. Glasses were poured and presented, before bottles were revealed. A few surprises, some more pleasant than others. It was a fun way to taste wines of Matakana, although not nearly as satisfying as visiting the vineyards themselves. I guess there’s just something special about being able to see the landscape that nurtured the grapes that you sip.

Mahurangi River Winery Field of Grace 2010 Chardonnay 
Golden straw, medium bodied, intense fruity nose of ripe melon and pear, palate redolent of stonefruits and a trace of honey cut through by acid and a hint of flint. Beautifully delicious bouquet but I feel it didn’t quite deliver on finish. Perhaps a more restrained style of Chardonnay?

Brick Bay 2012 Pinot Gris 
Lemony straw coloured, subtle stonefruits dominate the bouquet and palate with hints of lime and honey. A clean, and rather lean, wine.

Heron’s Flight 2012 Rosé 
Heron’s Flight specialises in Italian varietals, and this one is made from Dolcetto, hailing from the North Western Piedmont region. Now I must admit I’ve never tasted Dolcetto so I don’t know what it’s suppose to be like, but this Rosé is gorgeously pink, almost florescent! Filled with sweet berries, citrus, and almost pink grapefruit flavours. It’s a light and delectably summery drink, quite adept as the dolcetto, or “little sweet one”.

Ransom 2010 K-Syrah
Now that Bordeaux blends are slightly out of vogue, Syrah is perhaps the most popular red in Matakana. This is a pretty classic Syrah, deep red in colour with black pepper, cassis, black cherries, and a hint of tobacco. Dry, firm, masculine, a solid food wine.

Runner Duck 2009 Red 
Perhaps the surprising highlight of the flight, from a boutique 8-acre vineyard in Warkworth (whose town symbol is the duck), this is a remarkably fragrant red smelling of violets and raspberries, tasting of sweet Doris plums and spicy blackberry pie. It is round, smooth, and soft, and oh so ridiculously easy to drink. An interesting blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

Wine is sunlight, held together by water.

Auckland (A) to Matakana (B) to Goat Island (C)

Coming off my week of night shifts is a cause for celebration. We decided to take advantage of the sunshine (don’t you just love this endless summer?) and head to Goat Island for a bit of snorkelling. Despite the brilliant weather there was quite a swell in the water and visibility was poor, so we packed up early and decided to relax with a glass of wine or two instead.

Driving from Leigh to Matakana the first winery sign we spotted was Hyperion, and it seemed as good as any to visit. A real boutique winery, it is a one-man (John Crone) operation (from viticulture to bottling), offering about 600 cases a year.

The more serious winemaking practices didn’t take off in Matakana until the late 1970s, and as luck would have it the earliest vines were planted on the land Hyperion, established in 1994, now sits on.  Hyperion is the Greek sun god (father of Helios), and he certainly blessed us with his presence yesterday, like he has most of this summer. The vines looked like a sea of green surrounded by brown grass, with its roots deep in clay soil soaking up moisture. This makes the sun-filled rustic surrounding particularly suitable for producing great Bordeaux blends.

For an operation that runs from a converted cowshed, Hyperion has a surprisingly large range of wines on offer. John said he just couldn’t bring himself to ditch any. You could tell he’s doing this for love.

From Hyperion's website

2011 Phoebe Pinot Gris 

This is a Pinot Gris with character. Lean, zesty, with a nose redolent of melon but also plenty of citrus and Granny Smith apples, it delivers on the palate what you detect on the nose. A different expression to the standard New Zealand Pinot Gris I have become used to.

2011 Demeter Rosé

You can tell instantly this Rosé is made from Pinot Noir with its characteristic sweet strawberry tones. A popular wine for the summer no doubt. 

2009 Eos Pinot Noir

The only winemaker daring enough to make pinot noir in Matakana, it is light to medium bodied with red cherries and raspberries aromas, complemented by slight earthiness and a touch of spice.  Better than expected.

2010 Midas Malbec

The wine that put Argentina on the map, I tried a few while I was over there, and their powerful masculine tannins were too overwhelming for my liking and I haven’t touched it since (except those in blends). Hyperion’s rendition is much more elegant, with a young purplish hue it smells of violet and cassis, with plum and even a touch of blueberry on the palate. The tannins are soft and gentle, it’s a fairly easy-drinking Malbec but not lacking in power.

2009 Zeus Merlot/Cabernet

60/40 blend, easily accessible and rather pleasing, with classical plum and bramble aromas, hints of savouriness, bundled up with a bit of tannin. Not particularly memorable but a crowd-pleaser.

2008 Titan Cabernet Sauvignon

Hyperion’s flagship wine, the cabernet that goes into this is from one of the oldest vines in Matakana. Violets, blackcurrants, spices, with hints of mocha, it is smooth and rounded, robust but elegant. Potential for cellaring.

For more visit http://hyperion-wines.co.nz/

Pinot Gris, the beginning of something beautiful?

Attended an after work get-together a few weekends ago at a bar in Parnell in which I had a few glasses of wines that were particularly suitable for the golden summer. Some pleasant sensory interactions with Pinot Gris, a varietal that I’ve come to dislike but now am not quite so sure.

Martinborough Riesling

I loved Martinborough’s Bruno Riesling 2011 when I tasted it last year, so I had high hopes for this. It didn’t quite meet expectations, with pear, honey, and a hint of floral spice. It’s more lean, packed with acid and minerals, and not as rich, but still retains a lengthy finish. Enjoyable but no magic.

Roaring Meg Central Otago Pinot Gris

Absolutely delectable. Fruity aromas that hit you in the face (in a pleasant way), one can pick out melons, apples, and stonefruits, with a round but refreshing palate redolent of luscious melons and zesty citrus. I dig this Pinot Gris, as the taste didn't disappoint following the enticing bouquet, unlike so many others.

The Ned Marlborough Pinot Gris

Alluring apricot colour reflecting the pink-blush of Pinot Gris grapes, this wine has a fruity bouquet of stonefruits and pears. The palate is smooth with pears, peaches, and just a hint of spice. A Pinot Gris I can tolerate quite happily, but not as delicious as the Roaring Meg.

Note to self: slightly annoyed that the wine menu failed to list the vintages and I didn’t pay enough attention to the bottle at the time; an oversight I shall remedy in future 

From maladies to merlot

There was an interesting article in Idealog interviewing Drs John and Brigid Forrest behind the Forrest wine label (delicious Riesling!).

As a wine-loving medic myself I’ve often dreamed about quitting my day job and owning a small boutique winery. Obviously I’m not alone as I’ve come across a few doctor-turned-winemakers.

The rigorous scientific methods learnt in laboratories probably transfer well to the wine lab, not to mention waking up before dawn, uncertainty, and an ability to imbibe large quantities of alcohol. But unlike John Forrest, who hails from a farming background, I can barely make parsley grow.

So I read with interest others’ foray into the world of wine, and hope one day I may become more intimate with it myself.  

Wines from Coromandel

I’ve been relatively busy at work so haven’t managed to open many bottles or enjoy many tastings since Christmas. But last week I took a few days off and went to the gem of North Island, Coromandel. I was looking forward to a few days of sun sand and sea, and wines weren’t on top of my mind but I serendipitously stumbled across Mercury Bay Estate as I travelled to my accommodation in Cooks Beach.

Mercury Bay lies on the Eastern Coast of the Coromandel Peninsula, 10kms from the famous Cathedral Cove. It is named after James Cooks voyage where Endeavour was anchored in the harbour to observe the transit of Mercury in November 1769.  Today it is a popular holiday destination as it epitomises the beauty of idyllic New Zealand summers.  

Mercury Bay Estate, established in 2006 by the Donelleys, overlooks this bay. Specialising in Pinot Noir, it also offers a range of other varietals gathered from elsewhere in the country to be brought back where the magic is concocted by contracted winemakers.

So on a glorious summer morning I had my first encounter with wines from Coromandel. Although most were pleasant none of them were exceptional. The standout of the winery is definitely its stunning location.

North-facing vines looking towards Mercury Bay

Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Grapes sourced from Malborough it is a typical Kiwi Sav everyone loves (or loves to hate if you’re an Aussie). Lively with the quientensial gooseberry aromas, balanced nicely with passionfruit and citrus, it’s not too green or in your face.

Pinot Gris 2012

Some may know I’m not a huge fan of Pinot Gris. Although I have immensely enjoyed one or two superb examples of this varietal, I’ve found most promising lots but under delivering.  So I wasn’t expecting much from this but it pleasantly surprised me. Bouquet of honey melon, pears, and marmalade, it is a soft, rounded, and mellow wine.

Lonely Bay Chardonnay 2011

Single estate Chardonnay from the neighbouring Lonely Bay vineyard, it has aromas of grapefruit, hints of spice, and butterscotch. A creamy Chardonnay but balanced with plenty of fruit and acidity so the buttery-ness is not overwhelming. 

Rose 2012

Apparently one of the most popular wines in the summer it’s easy to see why. Made of 100% Pinot Noir it’s jam packed with strawberry and raspberry notes. Light, fresh, and fruity, perfect accompaniment to a summer lunch.

Red Merc 2011

65% Pinot Noir and 35% top secret, this is an easy-drinking red wine, light bodied, redolent of red berries and red cherries, with just the faintest hints of oak, it lacks the spice and tannin to give it weight or power, just as the winemaker intended apparently.

Pinot Noir 2009

Given Cooks Beach’s reputation as a sunny seaside town, I was somewhat surprised to find that the temperature does cool enough during winter to grow worthy Pinot Noir grapes. However in years that Mother Nature refuses to cooperate, the winemakers of Mercury Bay Estate opts to skip a vintage rather risking substandard wine.

The 2009 Pinot Noir is more of a subtle style, it is predominantly earthy with mushroom, savoury tones with just a hint of black cherry and aniseed.

Pinot Noir 2010

Completely different style to the 2009 this one is louder and more fruity, with a luscious berry and red cherry bouquet, forest floor undertones coming on mid-palate, and a clean finish. 

Mercury Bay Estate Cellar Door

Neighbouring Lonely Bay Vineyard

Mercury Bay Estate: http://www.mercurybayestate.co.nz/
Lonely Bay Vineyard: http://www.lonelybayvineyard.co.nz/index.html

Christmas bubbles

Hope you had a very merry Christmas with lots of cheers, good food, and plentiful wine. 

I enjoyed a relaxing Christmas in Christchurch (sans earthquakes!) with my partner’s family. Only downside is their house is an alcohol-free zone (don't ask). Aaaarggh! I hear you say. Fear not though for I snuck a bottle of bubbly in.

On a skimp budget I settled for Lanvin Brut Champagne NV. It has been consistently voted by Cuisine Magazine as one of the best value-for-money Champagnes. 

It is subtle and delicate with bright citrus and brioche flavours, and a touch of cream.  Elegant and not at all in-your-face as some sparkling wines can be. At $40NZD it’s a pretty decent buy.

With a set of new flute glasses (a Christmas gift) I look forward to tipping back a few more glasses of Champagne come graduation time. Perhaps I should stock up now.